By Nadine Kam

Photo courtesy Phillip and Susan Lauer
From left, Blue, Bono and Roxy model parkas with decorative buckles stitched up by Susan Lauer of Pupstar Sonoma. The photo won the family third place in a contest at www.valentinomovie.com

As far as some dog owners are concerned, Valentino’s pugs stole the show in the film “Valentino: The Last Emperor,” still playing at Kahala Theatres.

Winners were recently named in the movie Web sit’s Pug-o-Vision contest, and the third place finishers happen to have Hawaii ties. Susan and Phillip Lauer started a small clothing company for dogs, Pupstar Sonoma, after Susan’s designs got the attention of other dog owners in Northern California. Before they moved to Hawaii, Phillip worked at Crazy Shirts, and Susan, a University of Hawaii fashion graduate worked throughout in the fashion industry, continuing to do pattern making and grading for a local company after the move.

Here’s my story in today’s print edition: http://www.hsblinks.com/a2

Also, today, some tips from the book “How Not to Look Old.” http://www.hsblinks.com/a3

By Nadine Kam

Nadine Kam photos, except for Douglas Kirkland’s, which should be evident
The third floor VIP Salon at Chanel Waikiki has been transformed into an art gallery for the exhibition of 36 photos by Douglas Kirkland of Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel, taken in 1962 when the designer was 27 years old.

Chanel’s Waikiki boutique welcomed Douglas Kirkland during a reception Thursday night welcoming the photographer and opening the exhibition of 36 of his photos of Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel, taken in 1962. The show continues through June 6.

The exhibition opened in New York eight months ago, and while curator James Cavello, president of Westwood Gallery in New York, said he showed 15 pieces at Art Basel in Miami — the most important art show in the nation — and in Los Angeles, but this is only the second time the exhibition is being shown in its entirety. The occasion is to mark Chanel’s 25th anniversary in Honolulu, the first city in the United States to have a Chanel boutique. To make way for the exhibition, the boutique’s third-floor was emptied of its usual displays and walls and track lighting were added to transform it into a fitting gallery space for Kirkland’s work.

Seeing the photos again, he said, “I feel Mademoiselle is here tonight.”

For many guests, meeting Kirkland provided a connection to the fashion icon, who he still refers to as Mademoiselle.

“If you knew her, you called her Mademoiselle, not Coco. She hated that. She had a short career as a cabaret singer — not a very successful one. Coco was her stage name.”

The photographer was only 27 when he got the assignment from Look magazine to photograph Chanel. The interest grew out of First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy’s wardrobe, which included Chanel pieces, and editors at the time wanted to share a glimpse into the world of haute couture.

Kirkland said, naturally, “I felt overwhelmed, but whenever I was in these situations I would never admit this. That was my attitude.”

Because of his youth, however, he said the designer didn’t trust him and requested that he first photograph her models in her designs.

“I brought her the prints, and what she saw she liked, and the doors opened,” he said. “I was free to go anywhere in her atelier.”

Kirkland has shot in Hawaii before, during the making of the movie “Tora! Tora! Tora!” and for the “Day in the Life of Hawaii” photography project in 1983, when he photographed the Big Island by air. He also notably spent an “evening with Marilyn Monroe” for Look, photographing her in bed the year before she died.

Douglas Kirkland photo
The photographer spent an evening with Marilyn Monroe in 1961.

One party-goer, Holly Bloom, brought back more memories for Kirkland, by wearing a dress bearing an image of Audrey Hepburn, who he photographed on the set of “How to Steal a Million.” He was photographing Audrey when he met his wife Françoise, who was visiting her mother, who worked in the film’s publicity department.

“Was it love at first sight?” I asked. “Yes!” he said, before backtracking a bit, saying, “Well, you better ask her.”

Karl Lagerfeld was recently taken by one of Kirkland’s images of a Chanel dress modeled by Yves Saint Laurent muse Betty Catroux, and he plans to recreate the dress in a future collection. Inspired by the images, he also reproduced Kirkland’s images in a book, “Mademoiselle: Coco Chanel Summer 62.”

I asked people throughout the evening which was their favorite photo, and many chose this image of the iconic Chanel, observing a sitting in her 31 Rue Cambon atelier, cigarette hanging from her lips, and scissors dangling from a length of ribbon around her neck.

Douglas Kirkland holds court, surrounded by a circle of admirers in the center of the salon.

Douglas, at 27, with Mademoiselle.

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By Nadine Kam

Nadine Kam video stills
Models wear swimsuits by Brandi Owens.

Here are two more videos of more senior designs from last weekend’s Honolulu Community College fashion show, featuring more of the swimwear and casual designs:

Joori Kang created fun dresses that made tropical florals more palatable to a younger audience.

By Nadine Kam

Fighting Eel photo of Dress Oz
Fifty percent of people who read this blog live out of state, so sales mentions aren’t usually helpful to them, but this time around, Fighting Eel is making it possible for out-of-towners to enjoy discounts as well.

Shop May 9 to receive 25 percent off any one item, whether for mom or yourself. Head to the Fighting Eel headquarters at 47 N. Hotel St., upstairs, or shop online with the promotional code MOTHERSDAY09 to receive 15% off your entire online purchase.

This deal cannot be combined with other discounts or applied to prior purchases. All sales are final and there’s a limit one discount per customer.

The boutique will be open 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Call 808-524-1472 for more info.

By Nadine Kam

Nadine Kam video stills
Designer Tammy Takaoka opened the show in a theatrical way.

Students at Honolulu Community College have to be proud of having staged a show to remember Sunday at the Sheraton Waikiki Hotel.

They had help with set design for their “Masquerade” show with a centerpiece mask constructed by the school’s carpentry department, and designer Tammy Takaoka staged an eye-catching opener, setting the energy level high for the rest of the show. HCC graduate designer Andy South returned to his alma mater to model one of Takaoka’s designs while towering over the other models in stilts, like an impossibly leggy fashion illustration brought to life.

A display of students’ fashion illustrations was set up near the ballroom entrance, where dancer Kamakoa Page performed in white around a display of wedding gowns.

Twelve designers showed individual collections ranging from three pieces to a dozen ensembles by Natasha Li, all the more impressive when you know the former model is also a new mom juggling school work.

When it was over, swimwear designer Nick Fahey won the award for production design, and show producer Vinh Buu won the best designer award for his denim collection.

The show was well-paced and I was also impressed by the models, who moved so well I made very few edits to the video. That was so refreshing to see because there are a lot of agency models here who don’t know how to walk or move for photos and there’s no excuse for that now that we have TV programs like “Next Top Model” and “Make Me a Supermodel” that provide good how-to lessons.

I’m really glad we’re living in a video age so you can see some of this for yourself. Just two years ago I would have had to describe this in 1,000 words. As much as we try to capture the excitement in words, it’s nothing like the feeling of being there that the moving images can convey.

This doesn’t mean giving up writing or reading. There’s a reason writers keep asking, “Is Google making us stoopid?” Living a purely visual life doesn’t encourage thinking, much less critical thinking that is necessary for society to function in a productive way.

Natasha Li’s finale gown.

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By Nadine Kam

“Valentino: The Last Emperor” photos
Valentino is surrounded by models in his signature red, and his pugs.

We are doubly blessed this month to be able to see the film, “Valentino: The Last Emperor,” playing at Kahala Theatres, followed by a trip to the Chanel Waikiki boutique to get a taste of the rarified world of haute couture, as depicted in the movie, on vivid display.

Chanel will be bringing in its Métiers d’Art Collection 2009, “Paris Moscow,” for a special exhibition May 9 through June 6. (Chanel designer Karl Lagerfeld makes an appearance in the “Valentino” film, toward its end.) I’ll have more information about the show, as well as images from the collection in Thursday’s paper, but for now, Valentino.

Anyone with the slightest interest in fashion MUST see this film, by Matt Tyrnauer. I saw it on Friday night, during a benefit screening presented by the Honolulu Gay & Lesbian Cultural Foundation, also held in advance of the organization’s 20th annual Honolulu Rainbow Film Festival, running May 21 to 24.

The film is funny and sad, with all the elements of great drama, including a quixotic protaganist, villains in the form of business execs and financiers, and tragedy in light of market forces and changing of the guard, leading to the end of the era in which Valentino thrived.

Beyond surface beauty, there are dozens of hands involved in constructing these garments by hand, with skills above and beyond what most people will ever be exposed to, because what most of us see is the ready-to-wear. By film’s end, one reviewer still couldn’t separate haute couture from L.L. Bean. That’s so sad. (more…)

By Nadine Kam

You may not be able to slip your toes into $2 million heels, but you can imagine it a little better when ogling a pair of $2 million tanzanite-and-diamond evening sandals on view at The Wedding Ring Shop from May 3 to 5.

More than 185 carats of tanzanites and 28 carats of diamonds went into the sandal, which made its debut at the New York Public Library in January 2007 as the winner in the “Fashion Accessories” category of the Tanzanite Foundation’s “Celebration of Life Jewelry Design Awards” for 2006. Take a look at other winning designs here.

The design is a partnership between award-winning fine jewelry designer Eddie LeVian and Stuart Weitzman, shoe designer and founder of Stuart Weitzman, Inc.
The Wedding Ring shop is at 1181 Kapiolani Boulevard. Call 945-7766.

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If you’re looking for something to do right now, check out the Rock Shop @ The Loft, 115 N. Hotel. The First Friday event continues to 8 p.m., offering wares by Anné, Meesha, Shop Blaine Ashley, Sola B, Dork and Cloth.

Also this weekend, just about every store will be offering sales in anticipation of Mother’s Day. May 10 is the big day so better get busy.

Celine: Drop by the Ala Moana boutique at 2 p.m. May 2 for a peek at its new soft, summer Pillow bag.

Cottage by the Sea: Hosts a summer trunk show featuring Velvet clothing (15 to 50 percent off) and Gabbybella jewelry (15 percent off), from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. May 2 and 3. Also, enter to win a $200 shopping spree all weekend long, with no purchase necessary. The boutique is at Ward Warehouse. Call 591-9811.

The Place: Hosts a Mother’s Day trunk show of handmade jewelry by Ann Sandhu, and handpainted silks by Keiki Fujita, as well as 15 percent off the shop’s entire stock from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. May 2. Place, A Design Atelier by Philpotts, is at 40 S. School St. Call 275-3075.

Shasa Emporium: In Thursday’s print ed. I mentioned the Jewelry by Cari Mother’s Day trunk show going on from noon to 4 p.m. May 2, with 20 percent off the designer’s sterling silver and 14K gold jewelry. But while you’re there, you can also check out new arrivals, including ki-ele jewelry by Marylea Conrad. You’ll get a free shell ring with every $30 purchase while supplies last. Also, buy $50 of Moopiland stuff through May 3 and you’ll get a free mousepad. The boutique is at Kahala Mall. Call 735-5122.

Split Obsession: Buy two T-shirts and get one free from 10 to 7 p.m. May 2, and 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. May 3. The offer is valid for men’s, women’s and children’s tees. The free T-shirt must be of equal or lesser value than purchased shirts, and all sales are final. (Promotion excludes some brands, including Moopiland, Super Good and Martin Hsu.) The shop is in the Koko Marina Shopping Center.

Macy’s Ala Moana: Remind mom to Fi(GH)t for the Cure with a complimentary fitting in a Wacoal or b.tempt’d bra. For every woman who participates, Wacoal will donate $2 to Susan G. Komen for the Cure for breast cancer research and community health programs. Wacoal will also donate an additional $2 for every Wacoal bra, shapewear piece or b.tempt’d bra purchased between 11 a.m. and 5 p.m. May 2.

And don’t forget to check out these new limited-edition tees by Anna Sui and Koi Suwannagate. Sales of the $60 shirts will benefit OCA’s scholarship programs serving Asian Pacific Americans. The collaboration was done in celebration of Asian Pacific American Heritage Month.