Back stage at Temperley London
By Nadine Kam
All photos by Nadine Kam c 2007
Robert Verdi interviews designer Alice Temperley.
From the spectator’s view, all is calm and glossy once the models hit the runways in the tents. For a look from the other side, I got to go back stage at Temperley London Saturday afternoon, where Aveda was handling hair duty and MAC was responsible for models’ faces.
Aveda head stylist Alain Pichon works on Margaryta’s hair.
As far as faces for spring, it’s shaping up to be quite pale, with soft color all around. For Temperley, MAC’s head artist Charlotte Tilbury used all-over gloss on eyelids and cheeks, with saturated matte color on the lips, orange on tanned skin and a pinker hue for pale skin. Lips popped from a distance. For real wear, she suggested blotting the color for a subtler stained look. But that’s getting ahead of time. I just know that returning to Hawaii will be like going through a time tunnel back to fall thoughts! I can see what a killer it is for fashion people to keep up here. When they see what’s new, they want it NOW. Meanwhile, I’m seeing all of fall’s cocoon dresses on the street and getting kind of burnt on the look. Makes me want to pass on the season.
Dressing the modern flapper at Temperley London.
Bright orange matte lips and glossy face effects from MAC.
For Aveda and MAC, creating looks to go with the clothing takes place only a couple of days before the show when they get to see the clothes and talk about the inspiration behind them. In this case, the 1920s and ’30s as the birth of fun in fashion. I have to give them credit for keeping all the shows straight. Tilbury said she’s creating the makeup for 10 New York shows, 4 or 5 in London, 14 in Milan and 10 to 12 in Paris. I can’t imagine how stressful that must be. I’ve just been going to shows 4 days and I’m exhausted!
The quick-rising London designer Alice Temperley presented her first New York show last year, and will likely be as big stateside as she is in her home country, where she’s known for dressing party girls. Her soft knit dresses were adorable and topped by sleek retro cloche hats. Ensembles were completed with Oxford boots and lace-up granny boots in metallic snake and leather.
All things considered, down to the Cosabella nude thong.
While there, I also got a chance to talk to the catwalk’s “It” girl Agyness Deyn, who channels a sort of Edie Sedgwick-meets-”Who’s That Girl”-era Madonna. I can see why she stands out with her dark brows and shock of bleached hair. Most of the other models are pale-eyed, baby-faced Eastern European girls and with all their makeup on, tend to look alike. The last thing designers want is to create superstars that require super salaries, but some girls, like Agnyess, just have star quality.
Nadine Kam photo c 2007
It girl Agyness Deyn came in wearing a cute turban-style
vintage hat. Her dress chart is below.
I asked her how many shows she was doing, and she said she didn’t know. “I get a list the day before. It makes it easier. You don’t have to organize everything in your head.”
No blemishes can show.
