By Nadine Kam

Nadine Kam photos
Outside the Bryant Park tents after the Gottex show, Sept. 14.

In New York, fashion isn’t limited to the runways.

Outside the Koi Suwannagate show:

Inside the Catherine Malandrino show at Chelsea Art Museum:

Japanese media outside the Malandrino’s show:

The tamer side of Patrick McDonald:

At Max Azria, Sept. 15:

The uniform of New York fashion week: Very short skirt or shorts, very high strappy bondage heels and motorcycle or boyfriend jacket. Below, front-row footwear at the Jill Stuart show, Sept. 14:

At the Malandrino show:

Jason Wu’s models in their own clothes before the show:

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By Nadine Kam

Photos by Nadine Kam
Models face the crowd. Viscose fringe dress with pierced treccia waistline, detail below, and Macchu Picchu print chiffon off-shoulder dress.

Catherine Malandrino took her guests around the world with her “Nomads” Spring-Summer 2010 collection, with four tableaux gracing the Chelsea Art Museum beginning at 1 p.m. Sept. 15. The aim was to capture the spirit of the Nubas of Sudan, Berbers of the Sahara, Cashibo of Peru and Samoans of Polynesia through silhouettes based on draping and wrapping the body, with harem pants and linen men’s trousers emphasizing a loose shape.

Catherine Malandrino’s ad in the Daily.

The gallery was packed, which caused one photographer to remark, “People actually want to be here?” It’s one thing to be working and another to be part of a mass throng, which makes it hard to take photos. You feel like you can’t really walk around the pedestals or get too close to the models unless you’re a hambone who likes being in others’ shots.

There was a lot to take in, and a lot of details in the clothing. Check it out:

Ciara wears Terracotta Seta jersey Riad jumpsuit with Fiori de Bronzo chained leather necklace.

Selina wears Tokoriki cotton/chiffon applique tunic with degrade fringe chianti skirt.

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By Nadine Kam

M.A.C photos
Models at the Rodarte show were dressed with tribal tattoos inspired by the Maoris of New Zealand.

Makeup during New York Fashion Week isn’t restricted to the face alone. M.A.C senior artist Chantel Miller created the Maori-inspired geometric tattoo makeup seen on the runways at the Rodarte Spring/Summer 2010 runway show today at Gagosian Gallery.

Chantel, who specializes in body painting, spent four intensive hours with a team of 40 artists hand painting the elaborate body art. Each model received a customized combination of design motifs, depending on which look they were wearing in the show. This is why my planned back stage visit didn’t materialize. They scaled back on press because they didn’t need the distraction.

The “tattoos” at the Rodarte show were achieved with M.A.C Micronized Airbrush in Black Black, PRO Mixing Medium/Alcohol Base and Liquidlast Liner in Point Black.

Tom Pecheux for M.A.C also created tribal looks for Catherine Malandrino’s “Nomads” presentation at the Chelsea Art Museum. Her Spring-Summer 2010 collection circled the globe, paying homage to Sudanese clans, Saharan nomads, Peruvian tribes and the Samoans.

Nadine Kam photos
Fringe, flowers and Samoan-inspired tattoos formed one part of Catherine Malandrino’s presentation at the Chelsea Art Museum.

By Nadine Kam

Nadine Kam photos
Ladylike sophistication reigned on Erin Fetherston’s runway.

Erin Fetherston presented her runway show at Milk Studios in Chelsea at 6 p.m. Sunday. The photography studio teamed with M.A.C this year to bring the worlds of fashion, photography, art and media together in one space, with 27 designers—ranging from newcomers to established names such as Behnaz Sarafpour, Temperley London, Peter Som and Proenza Schouler—choosing to use the space over the seven days of New York Fashion Week.

The enormous space, with its multiple rooms, was a treat for all, from makeup artists to media. With room to spread out, and without having to push one’s way in for photography or interviews, the atmosphere was very zen. You could feel yourself calmly breathing instead of enduring the normal pre-show jostling and yelling.

The mood was fitting for Fetherston’s collection, “Ladyland,” inspired by the designer’s memories of a childhood visit to Nara, Japan, where she saw forests of pink cherry blossoms. Caramel, khaki twill and cherry blossom chiffon color most of her very adult collection.

Lyndell Mansfield is surrounded by her hair styling team, showing them how the unfussy chignons are achieved. She said she took the classic chignon and “messed it up so you still get a beautiful but relaxed look.” Otherwise, she said, “Hair up can look too contrived, too old lady.”

The aim is to get the hair up to create the illusion of a long, elegant neck, and she compared the look of the bun to that of a meringue created by a master chef. “It’s folded over so once it’s baked it looks so beautifully draped and folded.” This look is created with two bobby pins set an inch behind the ear on either side of the head, with hair on one side of the head pulled over to one side, tucked beneath the hairline at the nape and pinned, and repeated on the other side.

The look for hair and makeup for the show was inspired by the sophistication of Helmut Newton’s photographs. The aim for makeup artist Lucia Pica, for M.A.C, was to create a strong eye, with soft focus all around the face to play up the brown-lined eye, with orange shadow to create a diffused halo effect.

Makeup artist Lucia Pica, center, said faces work with the clothing where “colors are quite soft, but there’s more of a strong graphic shape and soft fabric. So again, strong with a soft focus all around. It’ll make sense when you see it.”

I did have an aha moment looking at all the brown eyes. I’ve been feeling kind of washed out here because the light’ and ambience is very different from Hawaii. The mix of concrete pavement, towering buildings and shadows cast by them all day, requires makeup to be as hard as the city, so I started doing the racoon eye thing with brown shadow, which would be too much at home, but is just right here.

Because there was so much space in separate rooms back stage, the mood level was much more relaxed than usual. One of the models is getting her toe nails polished with a pale pink. The model looks shell-shocked. They’re running from show to show like everyone else.

The show, feminine and ladylike with a lot of hat and mesh and jeweled glove details: If you watch the video, you’ll see the crowd scatter quickly at the end. They always do because time is tight between shows, especially as people are shuttling between shows in Chelsea galleries and the tents about 13 or more blocks away.

Ruffle cape and ruffle short in khaki twill with bow belt and gold-plated heart belt.

Plunging halter dress in khaki twill.

Front and back views of Angelica dress in navy cotton silk over black Cosmic Crystal embellished top. Note the jeweled mesh gloves.

Meryl wrap dress in porcelain blue silk.

Hutton dress in khaki twill over white linen eyelet dress.

Diana wrap dress in cherry blossom chiffon with Bianca blazer in floral cloque.

By Nadine Kam

Photos by Nadine Kam
Christian Siriano lightens up for Spring/Summer 2010, with oceanic and volcanic themes.

Christian Siriano showed why he deserved to win “Project Runway” and validates the show’s claim to search for the next great American designer during his runway show Sept. 12 in the Promenade at the Bryant Park tents during Mercedes Benz Fashion Week. The designer mostly known for dark, Victorianesque avant looks lightens up for spring with a show of whites, breezy gold satin-faced organzas with flounce details and nude “mummy-wrap” dresses with sheer horizontal-pleated silk chiffon overlays.

The invitation to the show included a graphic image of the oceanic print. The volcanic print was red.

His work has a maturity that some designers never achieve in their lifetimes. Some of his work in volcanic and oceanic prints drew gasps from audience members near me. Although we in Hawaii can identify with these forces of nature, his real inspiration is a woman traveling the Amalfi coast in Southern Italy. I especially loved the striking ocean blue-green metallics he presented, including a shimmery metallic linen classic trench. There’s a lot of shimmer, silver and whites turning up on all the runways, including metallic brocade shorts. In short, something you probably don’t have in your wardrobe and are not likely to find in a vintage shop, so will have to go out and buy, which is what designers and retailers want.

One other thing I’m noticing about spring is that lines are simple and clean, but details are coming from fine construction rather than stuck-on gewgaws and embellishments. If there is something sewed on, it’s sequins with the full range of full-on sparkle (Gottex, Jill Stuart) to tiny silver sequins halfway between shine and matte for more of a shimmery ethereal effect, rather than one that shouts “look at me!” I’m also seeing a lot of pretty dresses with bouyant or bubble skirts. Spring will be extremely pretty and polished.

This trench was in a beautiful seafoamy metallic blue-green.Wish you can see the true color. Sorry it’s faded out in this photo.

In the audience were Tim Gunn and Tori Spelling. People expecting a mob scene stayed away, but the show was extremely well-organized (unlike the Chado Ralph Rucci show later in the day), from admission to start time, and one of the great things about seeing the parade of styles Christian put together is, thanks to “Project Runway,” we all know the work he’s capable of doing, so we know that when we see a Christian Siriano design, we know it really is his work, and is not the work of an uncredited design team. Total fierceness!

If you watch the show on the video, you might see why it was one I didn’t want to end. The collection has distinctive Siriano signatures, but “Project Runway” always instills its contestants with the idea of striking a balance between creativity and wearability, and this collection is definitely wearable. Hopefully, he has manufacturing details in place so consumers will be able to find Sirianos on the retail floor.

One of several of Christian’s nude dresses with feminine flounce details.

Getty Images
One of the finale ballgowns in Volcanic print, like Madame Pele personified.

Getty Images
The man takes his bow. Check his shoes!

After the show, I hung out in the editors’ lounge at the Bryant Park Hotel, and when I returned to the tents, I saw a familiar face emerging. It was makeup artist Jessica Hoffman, who had also attended Christian’s show. It was drizzling for two days, which is why she has an umbrella.

By Nadine Kam

Nadine Kam
I like the presentation format, which allows you to walk around and focus on certain looks. Some of the models didn’t seem pleased standing under the hot lights, but try standing in line all day!

Carlos Campos showed slim form-fitting dresses and separates during a presentation at about 6:30 p.m. Friday at Twelve21 Gallery.

The designer is mostly noted for his menswear collections, having dressed such music stars as Justin Timberlake, the Killers, Franz Ferdinand, Scissor Sisters and Fall Out Boy. He’s also created costumes for such Broadway productions as “Jersey Boys” and “Fiddler on the Roof.”

I really like his clean, uncluttered lines. Details are in the construction, with cutouts and in some cases, seams that accentuate curves. Swingy jackets offer some cover for those who don’t like to bare arms. But you might as well start lifting weights now, because there are a lot of strapless bodices being shown at other shows.

There were flashes of silver in swimsuits and shorts, as well as in accessories of cuff bracelets and necklaces with dangerously sharp triangular points.

A lot of women are also not going to like this, but there is an emphasis on the hips in Campos’ long pants, and he’s not the only one doing this. There are many bubble skirts, like upside-down tulips, and architectural skirts that flare out in a lot of the collections I’m seeing. The short skirts demand tall heels so better start toning those legs as well as your arms (and back, and shoulders), and practice walking, if not running, in heels.

Take a look. I will try to add a video soon:

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Just before the finale, they pulled models off the stage one by one - a model pit stop - to cool them down, refresh their makeup and hair. It was pretty hot in the room and it was especially hot under the lights, but I couldn’t wait until they finished about 40 models, so back into the rain I went.

By Nadine Kam

Nadine Kam photos
Jason Wu is interviewed prior to his fashion show at the St. Regis Hotel this afternoon.

Michelle Obama may have been Jason Wu’s claim to fame, but the rest of us will want a piece of him now. This is a first. By the end of his show, I was in tears. I don’t know why. I had not a clue I would react that way when looking at the clothes on the rack and seeing the designer before the show. Maybe it was because it was perfection. It may be because the show, beyond the 20-minute spectacle, represents so much passion and years of hard work, ambition and dreaming, that to see it fully realized in such an amazing way was overwhelming. The setting, with the song, “Starlight,” by Muse playing, and seeing the designer follow his collection down the runway, had their impact. Usually, the designers—not front-of-room personalities—just humbly peek out for a brief wave after the show. Wu had to do the walk because of the configuration of the L-shaped rooms, to allow all guests to applaud him, and it was a powerful moment.

Luckily, the room was as dark as a theater after the finale so I could compose myself before heading out into the street and out to Chelsea for two shows set in art galleries. It was 9/11, so all my shows today were sited away from the tents, perhaps the thinking among this group of designers being it’s safest to avoid any crowd scenes.

The Tim Burton girl was the inspiration, in makeup by M.A.C, as charted above.

After talking to makeup artist Lucia Peroni for M.A.C, I took a look at the clothes hanging on the racks. They were definitely pretty dresses with fitted bodices and fuller skirts, some of billowing silk chiffon. The softness of the dresses contrasted with the hard line of black zippers down the back. There were also ladylike but sporty tweed suiting, with the drama of feathered skirts and dresses for the finale, but it was hard to get the full impact of the pieces until they went on the models. M.A.C worked closely with Wu to come up with a look that suited his vision of a Tim Burton girl, one that combines innocence with a dark edge. The makeup aimed for big, simple but sparkly and twinkly eyes achieved with crushed metal pigments, paired with a strong lip. The three lip colors that went on the models were a bright Russian red, burgundy brown and deep purple black currant. Eyes are lined with brown kohl pencil and brown eye shadow helped to add depth, and while some color is used for light contouring, Peroni said there is “no blush per se, it’s monochromatic chic with a little edge and rawness.”

The media, including representatives from AP, Extra, Elle magazine and Style.com waits for something to happen. People keep asking me if Fashion Week is fun. I don’t think that’s the right word. It’s just bigger and more intense than my work at home. It’s a challenge.

I was kind of bored waiting after the media was kicked out of the dressing room while the models changed into their clothes. I was looking down, considering the blister on my foot when someone passed close to my left. I glanced up and noted the slim figure and unmistakable bob and a fabulous structured crimson dress. It was none other than Ms. Wintour herself, paying a visit to Mr. Wu. Not having to work in this town, I gave chase and would easily asked her permission to snap her photo, but cameras were still being blocked from the dressing room. I also tried to get a shot through the doorway but there were too many people in the way. When she came out again she was walking close behind someone blocking any shots from the camera crews, real news guys who were still trying to figure out if she was Anna!

André Leon Talley sits backstage.

Also in the house were Vogue’s André Leon Talley, and IMG Fashion VP and Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week creator Fern Mallis, who was quite calm while explaining to organizers that someone was sitting in her seat!

Lynn Yaeger was among the guests waiting for the show to start.

I was hoping to photograph the clothing as the models came out. We were originally told we could shoot from the hallway, but I guess they decided they didn’t want anyone blocking the models’ path, so for this one, with a very limited guest list due to the long, narrow venue, media guests were crammed in the back of the room, with mostly back views of the clothing, that you’ll have to look at in the video.

These finale pieces were handled with white gloves by the dressers.

Just before the show, glass tiles placed on the St. Regis carpet were wiped clean of any spots for an unblemished showcase. Guests had been asked to try to avoid stepping on the tiles when being seated.

By Nadine Kam

Nadine Kam photos
On the street with model and representatives of Bagir, Ltd.

At this point I don’t even want to know how many hours I’ve been awake. Left Honolulu at 4 p.m. Wednesday and got in at 10 a.m. New York time, but really 4 a.m. Hawaii time, with only about 2 hours of sleep. Figure I’ve been up 46 hours now, and it’s not pretty. I don’t know why I thought it made sense to arrive day of.

On top of all my woes, I decided to pick up the iPhone 2 days ahead of departure when T-Mobile wouldn’t let me extend my contract (two months to expiration) to pick up the G1 phone at the discounted price for newbies. (Isn’t that just plain wrong when they treat newbies better than current loyal clients who have been with them for at least six years? So much for their so-called “mobile makeover” initiative. Plus, locking people into two-year contracts is also wrong. It might have been OK two years ago, but technology evolves so fast now, it’s a lifetime. Phone companies better watch it. First they lost the lock on phone numbers and the two-year contract is going to be the next battle.)

Anyway, I had put my entire schedule into the iPhone, only to find it updated all the times to fit New York time, so fashion shows at 9 a.m. were moved to 3 p.m., 4 p.m. to 10 p.m., etc. Some had moved to the next day. Had to fix all the times, adding to my aggravations.

Well, you always know you’re getting close to the tents when you see a guy in his underwear and plastic jacket. That would be a model for the Israeli clothing company Bagir, graphically conveying its eco philosophy and Eco-Gir, a suit made from 30 PET recycled plastic bottles. (The real suit would look like fabric.)

I was first lured to the Nicholas K, and Mara Hoffman show because it promised to make life easy for editors with its three-in-one format. It’s a great way for designers to pool resources as well.

But it’s been two years since my last fashion week and I was worried that having three designers would present delays and anxious about the 2 p.m. show’s late start because I also had to make it to the Ports 1961 show on the other side of the tent at 3 p.m.

Men’s casual wear by Nikolas K, with some of his womenswear designs below.

I had put the timing question to Twitter, and those who responded suggested it wasn’t a good idea to accept back-to-back invitations because shows often start late. That didn’t make sense to me. It might be true for Marc Jacobs and others showing outside the tents, but inside the tents, there’s a tight schedule and designers have to follow it or risk botching it for the next designer.

So I booked as many as I could, except when there was a direct conflict, in which case the company that sent its invite the earliest won.

I took my seat, but figured that once the show started, they wouldn’t want anyone crossing in front of their cameras, so I decided to stand near the entrance so I could run if I had to. By 2:45 p.m. I was really, really anxious, so left after seeing the Nicholas K show of men’s and women’s sportswear. I really wanted to see what kind of dresses Mara Hoffman would come up with next, but I didn’t want to risk losing my seat at Ports and becoming an SRO. So, after one long wait in line, I was back in another line. And, after about 10 minutes in my seat, people from the other show started trickling in.

Mara Hoffman’s show appears on a monitor inside the tent lobby.

All was not lost. The shows are captured on video that loops on screens in the lobby area so I could watch what I missed. As I expected, Mara Hoffman’s floor-length and short dresses were beautiful, appearing to be as light as a feather and full of soft, feminine, billowy movement. Any woman wearing one of her creations, in colorful geometric prints, would turn heads, whether at a spring garden party or evening event.

Whiney Eve showed very girly dresses with a lot of sheer laces and silver metallics. She also showed some prints that remind me of some vintage kimono prints, with their mix of purple, orange, green and white. It’s a very Asian-inspired palette.

If I had to decide on the trends for spring 2010 after Day 1, I would say there’s an Asian influence, and also heavy white and jeweled metallic look, both echoed on the Ports runway. I imagine people will still be feeling poor six months from now, but they’ll want to feel rich and wear things that will perk up their spirits. I think that is what designers will be giving us in the days ahead.

Whitney Eve designs, above and below, on one of the monitors in the lobby.

By Nadine Kam

Video stills by Nadine Kam
Calli Wagner on the Acid Dolls runway.

I’m getting ready for New York Fashion Week in a few more weeks, but in the meantime, Acid Dolls got off to a head start, with the debut of its Spring-Summer 2010 Collection Thursday night at the Honolulu Design Center.

Crystal Pancipanci’s stint in New York allowed her to bring some of the big city’s energy to the show, which opened with a performance by NY hip-rock artist Mitsue with Executive Platinum Music Producer Boola.

Otherwise, I’ve been waiting five years to see designer Cindy King’s post-UH work. She could have delivered a clothing collection sooner, but the perfectionist wanted nothing less than presenting a total look, so took extra time to simultaneously develop shoe and jewelry collections as well. Talk about workaholic.

And Pancipanci has been with her every step of the way as partner-stylist, while running her own fashion production company, Panci Style.

It was a great show, and there were plenty of dresses for girls who embrace the kawaii ideal, as well as cascades of ruffles for those who prefer a more romantic look, plus more sculpted, architectural pieces for the edgy woman. It was a fitting introduction to King’s versatility and talent, and having started, we can be sure we won’t have to wait another five years to see another collection from Acid Dolls.

Mitsue’s performance segued into the fashion show.

Krista Alvarez in a dress that would fit in at New York Fashion Week.

Justine Miguel in the show’s finale dress.

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By Nadine Kam

Above, Justine Miguel shows the animal print trend. She was a standout in our photo shoot for the University of Hawaii senior fashion show earlier this year.

Here’s a brief video to go along with the Neiman Marcus Fall Fashion Preview that appeared in Thursday’s paper. You can check out the copy here:

Shown during the presentation were designs by Donna Karan, See by Chloe, Robert Rodriguez, up-and-coming Leifsdottir, Stella McCartney, and Elizabeth and James.

I thought the models’ makeup was really beautiful, so chic and glamorous. Women who complained before about fashion being oriented only toward the young will appreciate the new sophistication on the horizon.