By Nadine Kam

Kate Spade
Kate Spade inspirations scroll by at http://www.katespade.info/ Go to “Things We Love.”

While working on a story about the Kate Spade Ala Moana Center opening a few weeks ago, I was also milling around on the company’s Web site, double-checking prices.

One of the features of the site is an invitation to go “Behind the Curtain,” which leads to projects and a slew of “Things We Love.” If you have time to explore, clicking on any of the dozens of images will lead you to artists’ Web sites and some goofy stuff, like hundreds of line drawings of sheep. Moving your cursor over an image at their site will tell you what you’re looking at so you can decide whether or not to spend a few more seconds actually opening the page.

The image at top right in this box led me to http://www.moleskine.com, where myMoleskine Artwork allows artists around the globe to share the work contained in their Moleskines as displayed in thumbnails below:

This image led me to the work of Filip Pagowski, whose textile designs collaboration graced the Comme des Garçons runway:

I also liked theblog.weemade.com/ which allows parents to posts works created by their young Picassos. In my studies of art, the aim is to return to the freedom of expression of unschooled innocence. It’s so hard to do. A decade ago, we presented monthly children’s art contests in the paper, and we’d see this phenomenon over and over. The most expressive works came from children in grade 4 and younger. By the 6th grade their technical skills became stronger, but with that, the work became tighter, more constricted. It is so important to learn the “rules,” but it can take a lifetime to then learn to break them.

By Nadine Kam

“Valentino: The Last Emperor” photos
Valentino is surrounded by models in his signature red, and his pugs.

We are doubly blessed this month to be able to see the film, “Valentino: The Last Emperor,” playing at Kahala Theatres, followed by a trip to the Chanel Waikiki boutique to get a taste of the rarified world of haute couture, as depicted in the movie, on vivid display.

Chanel will be bringing in its Métiers d’Art Collection 2009, “Paris Moscow,” for a special exhibition May 9 through June 6. (Chanel designer Karl Lagerfeld makes an appearance in the “Valentino” film, toward its end.) I’ll have more information about the show, as well as images from the collection in Thursday’s paper, but for now, Valentino.

Anyone with the slightest interest in fashion MUST see this film, by Matt Tyrnauer. I saw it on Friday night, during a benefit screening presented by the Honolulu Gay & Lesbian Cultural Foundation, also held in advance of the organization’s 20th annual Honolulu Rainbow Film Festival, running May 21 to 24.

The film is funny and sad, with all the elements of great drama, including a quixotic protaganist, villains in the form of business execs and financiers, and tragedy in light of market forces and changing of the guard, leading to the end of the era in which Valentino thrived.

Beyond surface beauty, there are dozens of hands involved in constructing these garments by hand, with skills above and beyond what most people will ever be exposed to, because what most of us see is the ready-to-wear. By film’s end, one reviewer still couldn’t separate haute couture from L.L. Bean. That’s so sad. (more…)

By Nadine Kam

Nadine Kam photos
Honolulu Community College fashion technology students presented examples of centerpieces for their May 3 fashion show, themed “Masquerade.”

All-around creative Amos Kotomori is the instructor for Honolulu Community College’s fashion show production course and called me up to sit in on one of the student sessions.

It’s just as well that I’m on this side of the biz, the editorial part, because I know the amount of work involved in conceiving, showing and producing a line, and as I watched the student presentations and took in the enormity of their plans, I just felt tired.

Each designer, with the help of a student producer, will be designing his/her own segment, from staging to lighting to makeup, hair and accessory details, with many sharing models. I would hate to be the person in charge of that lineup, making sure models are spaced so they can complete work with one designer before being redone head to toe for the next. Talk about stress.

The story and photos will be in the paper tomorrow, when, after two weeks of running fashion stories Fridays, I’m moving back to my usual Thursday home. Yes, we’re still trying to figure out what fits where in our new tabloid-size configuration, but hopefully this will be the last move for the fashion pages.

Thanks for your patience!

Storyboards showed some of the students’ inspirations for the event. Designers came in with their own hair, makeup and staging concepts.

By Nadine Kam

Nadine Kam photos
At Kawaii Kon Saturday, Monchalee Steiger is Kanu Unchou.

If I return to Kawaii Kon next year, I gotta get myself a costume. Walking among those dressed as their favorite characters, it felt strange to be walking around in mainstream clothes. No. 1 rule of fashion after all, is to dress to the occasion, or bring it, in your own unique way of course.

I cover so many fashion stories, but it’s hard to parachute into the anime/manga/cosplay/Lolita worlds because they have a language and depth all their own, which can’t be learned in a couple of days. I tried to get it right.

Bryce Saito, left, is Suzaku from “Code Geass.”

Look around and you’ll always find drama at Kawaii Kon.

Christian Martin in character as M. Bison, from “Street Fighter.”

Yes there are human beings in there. Won Park, left, and Danielle Tubania are Transformers.

Capturing the moment.

(more…)

By Nadine Kam

Nadine Kam photos
Finale of the Lolita Fashion Show at Kawaii Kon.

There was a lot of lace, eyelet, ribbons and bows during the Lolita Fashion Show that took place Friday as part of Kawaii Kon 2009 at Hawai’i Convention Center. It was fun to watch the creations stitched up by Lauren Lee, as well as Japan brands such as Angelic Pretty and Victorian Maiden and Innocent World.

They showed the range of Lolita style, from gothic to sweet to country Lolitas and elegant gothic aristocrats, as well as demonstrated how to get the Lolita look from traditional stores while shopping on a budget, sourcing pieces from Payless Shoes, Charlotte Russe and Forever 21.

Why, you may have all the pieces for a Lolita outfit in your closet and not even know it! I know I do. That may just be because the shape of the garments are particularly suited to petite figures. It’s one of the few incidences where short girls rule on the runway!

You can learn all about Lolita style at http://lolitafashion.org/ which covers topics ranging from “Anatomy of a Lolita Outfit” to debunking “Lolita Myths.”

A blue belle, thanks to Angelic Pretty.

Lolitas on stage had to compete with Lolitas in the audience, like Salem Sipes.

(more…)

By Nadine Kam

Nadine Kam photos
A T&C purple, long-sleeved shirt was altered to go from laidback casual to sexy.

Over the weekend, Jon Ching, manager of T&C Surf Designs’ Kahala Mall store, presented in-store Deconstruction/Reconstruction demonstrations on how-to recycle plain, old T-shirts into sexier, edgier pieces.

Perhaps borrowing from a burger campaign, the idea is T&C Your Way. This is, after all, the era of personalization and consumers want choices in all matters. So why wear a T-shirt everyone has if you don’t have to?

Ching showed a braiding technique that can be done simply and easily using only scissors, needle and thread. It leaves a ruched effect and a more shapely, body-conscious fit.

The technique worked really well with T&C’s tattoo graphics, so as a result, people bought new shirts like those used by the T&C crew used in the store’s window display. The window was designed by UH fashion merchandising students, and the clothing on view is up for auction, tentatively through the end of the week. When I was there, it was up to $75 for one of the men’s outfits, and $65 for the dress with hot pink braided straps.

For those with no talent whatsoever, or those too timid to take scissors to their new shirt, Ching is actually willing to do the work free, for now. That is a really good deal because the purple tattoo shirt in the window is only $24, and to have a custom piece at that price is pretty awesome.

Three men’s shirts were cut and stitched together to creating this wearable collage.

By Nadine Kam

Amy Davis illustration
Peyton wears c.neeon dress, retro ’90s leather boots by Loius Vuitton, and silk skull scarf by Lucien Pellat-Finet, only because she has “waaaay too many by Mr. McQueen.”

Sometime Honolulu resident, artist and crazy rock ‘n’ roll chick Amy Davis sends word that she just started a new blog for Paper magazine, called Couture Voyeur. Voyeur is such a good word for the legion with a passion for fashion, but not the means.

It’s similar to her past Paper column, Style Fiends, but instead of “various hipsters styled out in très très delish avant fashion,” this time, she’s just reimagining one, Peyton, from week to week.

It’s a visual mashup of all the fashion, accessory and cosmetic finds that fill her eyes and head, emerging through her always fabulous illustrations. That’s one way to “wear” the best of the best when you don’t have the moolah for all. I told her I gotta get me some illustration skillz.

I look forward to viewing more of her finds.

Here are more views of c.neeon for spring/summer 2009:

By Nadine Kam

Associated Press
Designs by Jean-Paul Gaultier.

Really enjoyed seeing the photos come in from the Paris couture shows last week. The designers appear to have worked hard to avoid the suggestion of recession. Fashion is about appearances after all and putting one’s best effort forward as if by convincing themselves that it’s business as usual, than consumers might also be convinced.

Print space being limited, I was only able to run a couple of photos from Dior and Giorgio Armani Prive last week, so here are a few more creations by other designers.

As always, the details are amazing, and even if these clothes are just fantasy to millions, seeing them does provide some enjoyable escapism.

A gown by Lebanese designer Georges Chakra.

Color splash from On aura Tout Vu, by French designers Livia and Yassen.

Pretty packaging from Elie Saab.

Chanel designer Karl Lagerfeld with one of the many icy creations he sent down the runway.

Designs by Christian Lacroix, above and below.

By Nadine Kam

Another inspired choice by H&M, who announced Monday that its next collaboration will be with British designer Matthew Williamson, who will be creating women’s wear, and for the first time for the designer, a men’s wear collection.

For all the good it does us in Hawaii, the collection will arrive in the stores on April 23, 2009.

He’s noted for his use of color and bold graphic design that led him to work with Pucci, in addition to his own label.

I can’t wait to see what he comes up with. Here’s a taste of his work from his Fall 2008 collection.

By Nadine Kam

Photos and video by Nadine Kam
Aatila Tanaka models jewelry by Kensei in “The Art of Jewelry.”

Belle Époque glamour, elegance and opulence were the order of the day Oct. 5 when Kensei Takeda presented “The Art of Jewelry Fashion Experience” Sunday at the Halekulani as a fundraiser for the American Heart Association.

Models wore cascades of gemstones, beads, as well as feathered and veiled hats and hair pieces also created by Kensei, a hair stylist by day, accessory designer and collector of all things beautiful in his spare time. His perfectionist’s eye was evident in sumptuous styling, with, for a change, clothes as accessories to his dramatic jewelry creations.

The presentation took months of planning, and I was treated to a sneak preview in March when Kensei and show producer Dale Young hosted a lunch and mini show for Jane Lyman on her 86th birthday. Sitting at Jane’s table was one of her friends, Gladys Goka, from the days of Bon Ton, a downtown clothing store where much of Honolulu shopped in the 1930s.

MAC Cosmetics makeup artists Vanessa Buyson, Robin Gallo and April Moon created the looks on the models, and pianist Ginny Tiu performed during the lunch. Cheryl Bartlett and Cathy Foy-Mahi performed during intermissions between the show’s three segments.As a finale, Kensei held a drawing for two of his necklaces. One was won by Pia Solywoda, who claimed to be so certain of her win, she showed up with no necklace and wore black and white that so perfectly matched the onyx and silver necklace she won, Kensei immediately put it around her neck.

Kensei greeted well-wishers after the show, including Leilani Keough, who’s wearing a dress by Jeanie Chun, who was also in the audience. Chun is in the process of moving her business.

Cathy Roberts is adorned in turquoise from earrings to an updated version of the concha belt.

Among those enjoying the show were, from left, Lance Ishibashi, Catherine Fong and Stacey Gross. Catherine and Stacey, who’s also a jewelry designer, wore hats from Catherine’s Manoa vintage boutique Catherine’s Closet. Meanwhile Lance, formerly of Phil’s Gold & Diamonds, is looking forward to opening his own jewelry store just before the holidays. Details to come.

After the show, models Tessa Yu, Cathy and Aatila wait for their cars at the valet station in their civilian clothes, a little different from Kensei’s vision.