By Nadine Kam

Dior Homme photos
Fall 2009’s ready-to-wear will debut with the launch of Dior Homme at Ala Moana Center next Wednesday.

I don’t often have news for the stylish men in town, but this one’s a biggie. Dior Homme will arrive at the Dior flagship at Ala Moana Center next Wednesday. That’s hot!

The expanded boutique will feature a full offering, covering 500 square feet, of the Dior Homme collection, beginning with fall 2009’s shoes, accessories and ready-to-wear designed by Kris Van Assche.

Midnight black and crisp white set the mood for the new men’s section, with lacquered walls and black carpet contrasting with the white carpet and polished limestone floors of the women’s sections.

By Nadine Kam

Above, Justine Miguel shows the animal print trend. She was a standout in our photo shoot for the University of Hawaii senior fashion show earlier this year.

Here’s a brief video to go along with the Neiman Marcus Fall Fashion Preview that appeared in Thursday’s paper. You can check out the copy here:

Shown during the presentation were designs by Donna Karan, See by Chloe, Robert Rodriguez, up-and-coming Leifsdottir, Stella McCartney, and Elizabeth and James.

I thought the models’ makeup was really beautiful, so chic and glamorous. Women who complained before about fashion being oriented only toward the young will appreciate the new sophistication on the horizon.

By Nadine Kam

A few days ago I showed the half kimono-half lingerie costume worn by Miss Japan Universe, but on Aug. 2, tradition ruled at the Japanese Women’s Society Foundation’s 34th annual fashion show, “Kokoro o Musubu (Joining Hearts and Culture).”

In celebrating its 55th year, the foundation celebrated its rich heritage by bringing in the Hakubi Kyoto Kimono School of Japan to present a show of ancient and modern kimono dressing.

Many thanks to Charlyn Honda Masini, who shot most of the photos here while I shot video. These models in furisode turned around to delight the audience with their sculptural obi, including a nod to Hawaii’s yellow and red hibiscus, below right.

The school is considered one of Japan’s living treasures, aimed at preserving kimono traditions as well as spreading the spirit of peace, goodwill and friendship around the globe. Coinciding with the fashion show, the school made its 40th pilgrimage to the National Memorial of the Pacific at Punchbowl, a tradition that began in 1969, arranged by the late Gov. John A. Burns.

Burns’ presence was felt in the screening of the documentary “John A. Burns: The Man and His Times” during the lunch that followed the kimono fashion presentation.

A woman of the Heian imperial court is dressed in multiple layers of robes, like building an onion! The dresser in front kneels so as not to breathe in her face.

You can see the transformation in this video:

Mistress of ceremonies Emme Tomimbang was also dressed by members of the school.

A bride, with the help of two dressers, makes the transformation from formal wedding kimono to a more casual kimono, below, for the reception, without wasting much time because grooms don’t like to be kept waiting.

By Nadine Kam

Emiri Miyasaka’s take on the national costume of Japan, presented last week in Tokyo.

Another pageant, another beauty queen; YAWN!

But Miss Japan Universe 2009 Emiri Miyasaka has stirred up more interest than usual in the Miss Universe 2009 pageant coming up Aug. 23 in the Bahamas, thanks to her national costume that is one part kimono (the top half) and one part Lolita (bottom half).

You can read a little bit more about it on VoyForums, the Philippine Pageant message board. Critics call the costume slutty and say the costume shows disrespect for the kimono.

But then, if you check out the contestant roster at www.missuniverse.com, you’ll see that Emiri is way down in the polls, so she’ll need attention if she wants to bring the crown back to Japan again.

The garter belt, stocking and panties are risque for the pageant, but it’s not as if we haven’t already seen similar in prime time during those Victoria Secret runway shows, and it’s not as if the Miss Universe pageant makes any pretense at scholarship and intellect.

The thing that prevents it from being 100 percent slutty is the cleverness in showing that duality in Japanese culture, the mix of conservatism and appetite for sexual content in media. Hmm, that sounds a lot like the U.S. puritan/porn ethos, which confuses the heck out of conservatives. Which is why we uncover so many stories of hypocrites preaching family values while breaking any and all vows they claim to uphold. That is a lot more offensive than a stage costume.

By Nadine Kam

Nadine Kam photos
Hula figurines graced one of the windows at the new Kate Spade store on the mall level of Ala Moana Center, across from Bebe. The opposite window was full of yellow cabs representing the company’s origin. Kate Spade’s natural-colored Hula Ida bag looks like the skirts on the dancers. An orange version of the bag is pictured further below.

I don’t know about men, but women as consumers are pretty easy to figure out. We’re attracted to color. I could be wrong, but I think Apple was one of the first companies outside of fashion to recognize this and deliver color in objects not traditionally known for color. Before the Apple revolution, computers were gray or beige.

Kate Spade’s opening at Ala Moana Center this morning was marked by color, such that I didn’t know what to do. Talk to people or shop? It was pretty much like being in a candy store, with so many delectable looking baubles in shiny, happy yellows, oranges, magentas, pinks and blues.

The store was to look like the Waikiki store, but I was told plans changed four days ago, and the effect now is much for playful, appointed in living room furnishings and decor that add casual warmth to the room.

Although it would have been nice to think the summer collection was inspired by Hawaii, it was actually inspired by cities of Mexico and the Southwest. But the warm colors and casual, sophisticated style travel well. To capture that sentiment, the store is offering a limited-edition exclusive tot, “Hawaii Paradise Found,” for $155. It lists the distance from Hawaii to such major cities as Tokyo, L.A., and Sydney.

“Hawaii Paradise Found” exclusive bag.

A shopper wearing a preppy argyle design watch browses a tabletop covered with small wares and Kate Spade’s Hula Ida bag.

Maiko Nakano settles into a sunny yellow sofa at the front of the store which will allow tired shoppers to rest for a while, while continuing to check out small leather goods and jewelry.

Manikins show Kate Spade summer dresses and accessories.

I love the shop’s many retro living room details. Like the Waikiki store, it’s full of shelf-top sculptures, like the owl at left, and hardcover books. I bought the metallic blue version of the gold purse.

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By Nadine Kam

Nadine Kam photos
The Mrs. Hawaii Filipina contestants, from left, Melanie Koehler, Leonida Cameros (1st runner up), title winner Jema Geronimo, Cathie Long (2nd runner up) and Nicole Perez, with Mayor Mufi Hannemann.

The United Filipino Council of Hawaii chose its Mrs. Hawaii Filipina 2009 Saturday night at the Hilton Hawaiian Village Tapa Ballroom.

I was there to help judge the pageant. This one was fairly easy because there were only five contestants who were judged on talent, terno and speech, and ticket sales.

The terno is the butterfly-sleeve gown that is the national costume of the Philippines and it was interesting to see the variations, some with trains, some with bustles and fishtail hems.

A few of the women spoke of their history as battered women as reason to enter the pageant, which gives them a platform to be heard. Cathie Long’s story became her talent as she performed a stirring skit recounting her transition from abuse to empowerment. Her experience led to a doctoral degree in counseling psychology and master’s degree in marriage and family. She is now a member of the Maui Domestic Violence Task Force, counseling women who are in the same position she once found herself.

She won the talent and speech portions of the contest, memorably answering a question that went something like, “What was the strangest stereotype you heard about Filipinos and how did you correct it?”

She said she’s confronted the stereotype that all Filipinos carry bolo knives by saying something like, “I’m Filipino and I don’t carry a bolo knife, but I do have a pocket knife, and sometimes we carry mace.” The well-spoken counselor went on at length to say that Filipinos have come far and are great contributors to Hawaii’s modern society, and drew rousing cheers from the crowd. I wouldn’t be surprised to see her in Maui politics some day.

Also drawing roars from the men in the audience was winner Jema Geronimo’s belly dance. Some things never change.

Jema Geronimo performs her belly dance, and below, models her terno.

Melanie Koehler in a terno with train, and covered with lace and embellishments.

Nicole Perez in a turquoise terno.

By Nadine Kam

“Valentino: The Last Emperor” photos
Valentino is surrounded by models in his signature red, and his pugs.

We are doubly blessed this month to be able to see the film, “Valentino: The Last Emperor,” playing at Kahala Theatres, followed by a trip to the Chanel Waikiki boutique to get a taste of the rarified world of haute couture, as depicted in the movie, on vivid display.

Chanel will be bringing in its Métiers d’Art Collection 2009, “Paris Moscow,” for a special exhibition May 9 through June 6. (Chanel designer Karl Lagerfeld makes an appearance in the “Valentino” film, toward its end.) I’ll have more information about the show, as well as images from the collection in Thursday’s paper, but for now, Valentino.

Anyone with the slightest interest in fashion MUST see this film, by Matt Tyrnauer. I saw it on Friday night, during a benefit screening presented by the Honolulu Gay & Lesbian Cultural Foundation, also held in advance of the organization’s 20th annual Honolulu Rainbow Film Festival, running May 21 to 24.

The film is funny and sad, with all the elements of great drama, including a quixotic protaganist, villains in the form of business execs and financiers, and tragedy in light of market forces and changing of the guard, leading to the end of the era in which Valentino thrived.

Beyond surface beauty, there are dozens of hands involved in constructing these garments by hand, with skills above and beyond what most people will ever be exposed to, because what most of us see is the ready-to-wear. By film’s end, one reviewer still couldn’t separate haute couture from L.L. Bean. That’s so sad. (more…)

By Nadine Kam

Nadine Kam photos
Finale of the Lolita Fashion Show at Kawaii Kon.

There was a lot of lace, eyelet, ribbons and bows during the Lolita Fashion Show that took place Friday as part of Kawaii Kon 2009 at Hawai’i Convention Center. It was fun to watch the creations stitched up by Lauren Lee, as well as Japan brands such as Angelic Pretty and Victorian Maiden and Innocent World.

They showed the range of Lolita style, from gothic to sweet to country Lolitas and elegant gothic aristocrats, as well as demonstrated how to get the Lolita look from traditional stores while shopping on a budget, sourcing pieces from Payless Shoes, Charlotte Russe and Forever 21.

Why, you may have all the pieces for a Lolita outfit in your closet and not even know it! I know I do. That may just be because the shape of the garments are particularly suited to petite figures. It’s one of the few incidences where short girls rule on the runway!

You can learn all about Lolita style at http://lolitafashion.org/ which covers topics ranging from “Anatomy of a Lolita Outfit” to debunking “Lolita Myths.”

A blue belle, thanks to Angelic Pretty.

Lolitas on stage had to compete with Lolitas in the audience, like Salem Sipes.

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By Nadine Kam

Nadine Kam photo
Kawaii Kon’s Lolita fashion show is over, but you can catch two more days of Lolita style, anime dressup and cosplay this weekend at Hawai’i Convention Center.

I’ll be posting more from Kawaii Kon later, but just wanted to let any Lolitas out there know that some of the designs featured in today’s Lolita Fashion Show will be offered for purchase tomorrow during the event at Hawai’i Convention Center. Who could resist a yummy cupcake purse or cake hat like the one in the photo? Lauren Lee will also be there taking orders for her custom dresses.

You can also check out Lolita accessories at “Ever After Creations,” table 45 near the photo booth at Artist’s Alley.

You can find more information about the event at www.kawaii-kon.org

Also going on:

Alliway’s Spring 2009 Nest collection is being offered at 25 percent off through Saturday. Everything else in the store is 15 percent off. The boutique is at Ward Warehouse. Call 589-1141.

Enjoy discounts Easter Sunday at Valerie Joseph, Ala Moana Center.

Stuart Weitzman fans have the opportunity to preview the Fall 2009 shoe and handbag collections and place orders for the styles. Check it out from 9:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday and Tuesday at the Ala Moana Center boutique. Call 941-4371 for more information.

By Nadine Kam

Amy Davis illustration
Peyton wears c.neeon dress, retro ’90s leather boots by Loius Vuitton, and silk skull scarf by Lucien Pellat-Finet, only because she has “waaaay too many by Mr. McQueen.”

Sometime Honolulu resident, artist and crazy rock ‘n’ roll chick Amy Davis sends word that she just started a new blog for Paper magazine, called Couture Voyeur. Voyeur is such a good word for the legion with a passion for fashion, but not the means.

It’s similar to her past Paper column, Style Fiends, but instead of “various hipsters styled out in très très delish avant fashion,” this time, she’s just reimagining one, Peyton, from week to week.

It’s a visual mashup of all the fashion, accessory and cosmetic finds that fill her eyes and head, emerging through her always fabulous illustrations. That’s one way to “wear” the best of the best when you don’t have the moolah for all. I told her I gotta get me some illustration skillz.

I look forward to viewing more of her finds.

Here are more views of c.neeon for spring/summer 2009: