By Nadine Kam

It was raining outside, but inside Gotham Hall it was all blue skies for the
staging of Heatherette’s Spring/Summer 2008 fashion show.

Had an awesome lunch at The Modern today, but I’ll serve up details later. Hard to think about food and fashion at the same time, especially after putting my hand on my hip one day while waiting around back stage at the Temperley London show and finding my usual roll of fat gone from all the walking I’ve been doing. Makes me want to stop eating and keep walking.

With about an hour to kill before making it over to the Heatherette show in Gotham Hall, I stopped by the New York Public Library where there was a memorial service for Brooke Astor taking place in the Celeste Bartos Forum. I hung around the entrance for a short time, long enough to see Barbara Walters walk in.

But I wanted to see the library, so headed upstairs where I got onto a computer and started doing a genealogical search for members of my family, then started looking up subjects like the Chinatown fire and bubonic plague in Hawaii. I got so wrapped up in the stories that when I looked up at the clock it was 5:30 p.m. and I was supposed to be at the Heatherette show at 5. I was a little freaked out by having to make it seven blocks from the library to 36th St. and Sixth Ave.

Spotted in the crowd: Some people will wear (or not wear) anything.

When I got there it was a crazy scene with people trying to get in the front and a line stretching a block and a half. I had the bf in tow and he said, “You expect me to get into that?” I was a little worried myself. It’s not easy getting into places and security is hardened and unwilling to hear your story, because there are so many people who will lie or play up any angle to try to get in.

Luckily I did have permission to go back stage and there were fewer people waiting to get in at the back entrance. Later, I heard Heatherette’s show was the worst to get into because there’s always massive confusion at the door. I was lucky to breeze in, although with the show about to start, I could no longer go backstage.

People were already in my seat, but here, a “snooze you lose” mentality prevails. Someone sits in your seat, you sit in whatever seat you can find, and if by chance the rightful owner shows up, too bad he/she was late. The auditorium was completely packed so it was obvious none of the people in line were going to get in.

Models return for the finale.

The show opened with Lil’ Mama performing her song “Lip Gloss,” before models hit the stage, their hair done up in a poodle or topiary sort of way, wearing virginal white lace dresses. There was a lot of Americana on the runway as well. Perhaps in acknowledging the anniversary of 9/11, the show was themed “Star Spangled Smiles,” with plenty of red, white and blue fabric. And it’s not a Heatherette show without the costumey aspect of mini skirts formed with layers of netting.

Tyson Beckford is interviewed after the show.

As always, transsexual icon Amanda Lepore took the stage in all her pneumatic glory before designers Richie Rich and Traver Rains took their bows. Celebs in the crowd: Sean Combs (or whatever name he’s going by) and model Tyson Beckford.

Heatherette co-designer Traver Rains walks the runway
during the finale of the fashion show on 9/11. He’s followed
by Amanda Lepore while Richie Rich waves to photographers.

By Nadine Kam

Photos by Nadine Kam
Not so nuts? He turned down an acorn for a hunk o’ bread.

You know you’re a tourist when you start taking pictures of squirrels. This guy is the first squirrel I spotted since moving from Chelsea to the Upper West Side into Tempo, a WooGo Apartment building. Pretty nice for about $239 a night, with a little kitchenette, small fridge, oven, microwave, living room, bedroom and bathroom with full tub.

It’s about two blocks from Central Park so decided to take a walk before heading back to the tents for the Nicholai by Nicky Hilton show. So I threw this guy a little acorn and he rejected it in favor of this big ol’ hunk of bread. I never realized what big hands they have.

The squirrel turned out to be quite rude and aggressive, charging my boyfriend and stopping short, then doing it again. We were alarmed and going, “What’s up with that squirrel?” So my boyfriend just got out of its way.

As it turns out, he had been standing in the straight path between the squirrel and its tree, where it wanted to be, so once he stepped aside, the squirrel was able to scramble up the tree, food prize in its mouth. Whew!

The proud parents, Cathy and Rick Hilton.

I thought it might be a good place to spot celebs but figured they were at the MTV VMA Awards in Vegas, where there were many more ops for publicity, music being far more populist than fashion. I did get to see her parents, as well as Russell Simmons and also seated in the front row were Traver Rains and Richie Rich of Heatherette, whose show will take place 5 p.m. Tuesday. Her famous sis Paris didn’t show up, but that would have caused a circus and that bride rule applies, you don’t outshine someone on their wedding day.

Heatherette’s Richie Rich and Traver Rains had a view from the front row.

Applying silver liner backstage at the Nicholai by Nicky Hilton show.

I went backstage to watch the MAC makeup artists applying silver eye lining, inspired by the sparkle in some of Nicky’s designs. Back stage, it was a media circus that left little breathing room, so without looking at the clothes or trying to get a glimpse of Nicky, I just left. Unfortunately, staying there would have provided the best photo ops, but you can’t help but feeling like you’re in people’s way as they try to work.

Nicky’s show turned out to be a mixed bag, as if some garments were inspired by her mom, some by her sister. I could definitely see Paris wearing some of her dresses, but some seemed geared toward middle America. What I liked best were some slick black and green square cut jackets paired with hot pants. I think she’s still so young she’s trying to please many and needs time to develop her own vision. I can’t sense she has one by the way she dresses, sort of mall-ish. In spite of the Hiltons’ money, she and Paris are not as stylish as the Olsen sisters.

A second after Nicky took her bow and I snapped this photo, the entire crowd was on its feet.

At the end of the show she took her bows, and for the first time this week I saw a standing ovation, or maybe it was just everyone rising at once to snap a picture of the more private of the Hilton girls.

By Nadine Kam

Yohji Yamamoto made it rain during his Saturday afternoon
show for Adidas Y-3. Guests were led to the door by staffers
carrying umbrellas.

There was a lot of buzz surrounding Yohji Yamamoto’s Adidas Y-3 fashion show underneath the High Line at 21st Street, an abandoned elevated rail line being repurposed as a public park, with the first segment set to open in 2008.

Yamamoto always promises a spectacle, and this time created rain with hoses that poured onto the street, while under the rail guests sat on aluminum bleachers surrounding the street runway, slick and puddly after also being hosed down. Guests who entered on the wrong side of the street were led to the line to get in by staffers carrying umbrellas.

So, it’s a hot day, the venue is outdoors, the line encompasses sportswear. How would you dress? I wore a Theory black tank top, Diesel skirt and trusty old rubber slippers. One Asian girl got it all wrong, dressing as if she was headed to a cocktail party in a pouffy dress, chandelier earrings, Chanel purse and mink-trimmed stilettos. I’m sure she really loved stepping into water puddles.

Stephen Gan arrives and was photographed upon the
arrival of his Visionaire co-editor Cecilia Dean.

Spotted Visionaire’s Stephen Gan in a white T-shirt and jeans and realized I had not spotted his cohort Cecilia Dean all week. She turned up 10 minutes later in a simple leopard-spotted shift and flats, definitely shorter in person than she appears in photographs. Celebs in the house included LL Cool J, who’s a really big guy, Samuel L. Jackson and Mena Suvari, who wore a white tank top and jeans. Her hair was buzz cut, no doubt for a movie role. She also had that Hollywood glowing skin that comes from pampering and no worries while handlers are paid to do your worrying for you. In this case, the stars hung out in trailers parked in back of the venue where they could rest and sip champagne, entering just 5 minutes before show time.

A model in her own dress walks through the
puddle-covered venue during rehearsals before the show.

They weren’t adequately spaced though. While all cameras followed LL Cool J, Jackson entered with zero fanfare. It’s funny how he seems like such a larger-than-life character on film; he looks like an unassuming man on the street without the camera’s glare.

A model, in red, crosses the wet asphalt while
guests sat on aluminum bleachers.

The show started with the sound of thunder, and when the hoses came on, those who did not see the rehearsal thought it had really started to rain. Clothes shown were fluid pieces, meant for active lifestyles but minimalist and chic enough for the street. The designer, who observed rehearsals with the anxiety and pride of a parent, seemed pleased, smiling serenely.

By Nadine Kam

All photos by Nadine Kam c 2007
Robert Verdi interviews designer Alice Temperley.

From the spectator’s view, all is calm and glossy once the models hit the runways in the tents. For a look from the other side, I got to go back stage at Temperley London Saturday afternoon, where Aveda was handling hair duty and MAC was responsible for models’ faces.

Aveda head stylist Alain Pichon works on Margaryta’s hair.

As far as faces for spring, it’s shaping up to be quite pale, with soft color all around. For Temperley, MAC’s head artist Charlotte Tilbury used all-over gloss on eyelids and cheeks, with saturated matte color on the lips, orange on tanned skin and a pinker hue for pale skin. Lips popped from a distance. For real wear, she suggested blotting the color for a subtler stained look. But that’s getting ahead of time. I just know that returning to Hawaii will be like going through a time tunnel back to fall thoughts! I can see what a killer it is for fashion people to keep up here. When they see what’s new, they want it NOW. Meanwhile, I’m seeing all of fall’s cocoon dresses on the street and getting kind of burnt on the look. Makes me want to pass on the season.

Dressing the modern flapper at Temperley London.

Bright orange matte lips and glossy face effects from MAC.

For Aveda and MAC, creating looks to go with the clothing takes place only a couple of days before the show when they get to see the clothes and talk about the inspiration behind them. In this case, the 1920s and ’30s as the birth of fun in fashion. I have to give them credit for keeping all the shows straight. Tilbury said she’s creating the makeup for 10 New York shows, 4 or 5 in London, 14 in Milan and 10 to 12 in Paris. I can’t imagine how stressful that must be. I’ve just been going to shows 4 days and I’m exhausted!

The quick-rising London designer Alice Temperley presented her first New York show last year, and will likely be as big stateside as she is in her home country, where she’s known for dressing party girls. Her soft knit dresses were adorable and topped by sleek retro cloche hats. Ensembles were completed with Oxford boots and lace-up granny boots in metallic snake and leather.

All things considered, down to the Cosabella nude thong.

While there, I also got a chance to talk to the catwalk’s “It” girl Agyness Deyn, who channels a sort of Edie Sedgwick-meets-”Who’s That Girl”-era Madonna. I can see why she stands out with her dark brows and shock of bleached hair. Most of the other models are pale-eyed, baby-faced Eastern European girls and with all their makeup on, tend to look alike. The last thing designers want is to create superstars that require super salaries, but some girls, like Agnyess, just have star quality.

Nadine Kam photo c 2007
It girl Agyness Deyn came in wearing a cute turban-style
vintage hat. Her dress chart is below.

I asked her how many shows she was doing, and she said she didn’t know. “I get a list the day before. It makes it easier. You don’t have to organize everything in your head.”

No blemishes can show.

By Nadine Kam

Ivanka Trump, left, in the front row at the Ports 1961
Spring/Summer 2008 show at Bryant Park Sept. 7.

Made an early stop this morning at the Ports 1961 Spring/Summer 2008 fashion show in the Bryant Park Salon, a smaller offshoot to the right of the “Tent,” though both venues are in the same tent. There always seems to be a standing room only crowd about the same size as the seated crowd.

Sitting in the front row was Ivanka Trump, daughter of The Donald and Ivana, dressed in a simple cream sheath with a black belt. Her straight blonde hair hadn’t been “done.” I mean, it was very natural and fringy at the ends. Nothing wrong with that except that here, everyone’s hair is perfect. Even if it looks messy, you can bet that it’s been styled that way. Ivanka must be seriously busy. Her hair looked line mine on a normal day, brushed through, no gel, no mousse, no wax, no spray, no nothing. OK, maybe sometimes I use Jonathan’s Dirt for a little texture. It’s pretty good because it’s not sticky or gunky and it smells good. In between shows on Wednesday, I actually went to the nearby Jean Louis David salon to get my hair cut because it was pretty raggy compared to the fashionistas. Away went the bangs! I told one stylist I only get my hair cut once or twice a year. He was like, “Oh, come on, everyone has time to cut their hair.” Honestly, no I don’t, but I did have some time for this little fashion emergency.

I think Ivanka’s pretty cool because she’s not a spoiled brat as you might expect her to be, considering who her parents are. She was studiously eyeing the garments and taking notes. Hmmm, she does have her own jewelry line with a boutique on Madison Avenue, so it’s not much of stretch for her to be considering a clothing line.

The photo gallery in the tents is set up on risers, much like
a Japanese Girl’s Day doll display. Each videographer
is allotted a small space, below, measuring about 24-by-24 inches.
Photographers get body space.

Ports 1961 creative director Tia Cibani is an up-and-comer who brings a global village perspective to her work. Just this week one of the many fashion magazines I’ve been reading that black models are disappearing from the runways, but apparently, they were all at this show. Almost all the models were black. A couple were Asian. Garments were inspired by the dress of Eastern African women, but the aesthetic was thoroughly modern, merging comfort and modern luxury. Quite a feat. She sent out beautiful tunics, dresses and separates that would be perfect for Hawaii, runway smart, but realway practical. Quite a feat.

Well, gotta run. Off to a Damien Rice concert at Madison Square Garden and Prada party with the Hours and Damien Hirst.

By Nadine Kam

In the front row at Miss Sixty, Maggie Gyllenhaal,
Hilary Swank and Demi Moore.

Hit the tent at Bryant Park today for a 10 a.m. Miss Sixty show. It ended up as a full day of standing in lines, which anyone who knows me know I hate. There’s standing in line to get your seat assignment, then standing in another line to actually go into the Tent or the Salon where the show is being held, while they make sure everyone from the previous show has exited another door.

If you have a seat assignment, it doesn’t pay to show up early. Ivana Trump has this down to a science. The Fashion Week veteran was among the last to arrive at the Carlos Miele show, and the first to leave. She breezed in and out so quickly, no paparazzi in the main tent documented her arrival and departure.

Within the show tent it was another story at Miss Sixty, when the stars arrived in ample time to be photographed. Sitting side by side in the front row, though arriving separately, were Maggie Gyllenhaal, Hilary Swank and Demi Moore, all casually dressed but radiant (one designer complained in the WWD Fashion Week supplement that the stars should try harder to dress for the occasion, but the risk would be alienating one designer by wearing another designer’s work). Any money they spend on upkeep is definitely worth it. Overhead lights were not flattering on any faces in the room, leaving pretty much 99 percent of the crowd looking haggard, but the stars showed no trace of wear, stress or sleeplessness.

Oh, my bad. Clive Owen was sitting next to Demi, but I didn’t get a good photo of him because his head was turned away from her every time. I also heard Mischa Barton was in the house, but I didn’t see her.

“She’s so pretty,” women behind me cooed when they spied Gyllenhaal.

You can spot the stars by following the cameras. Every time one shows up, the swarm moves in unison. Heaven forbid you should be a B-lister when an A-lister shows up. Perry Farrell also showed up with his wife, but as a musician, he wasn’t recognized by the lensmen focused on faces they know from the big screen. When the lights went out before the show started, they came back on brighter than before, and Demi was prepared, having donned a movie-star size pair of shades.

I realized I had nothing to wear so I wore the DKNY and silver Malandrino skirt I bought a few days ago at Woodbury. That worked out as silver appeared in abundance at the Miss Sixty show, inspired by Andy Warhol’s 1966 film, “The Chelsea Girls.”

Seeing silver at Miss Sixty.

Next stop was at the Cynthia Steffe show in the Salon, where the house was packed but I didn’t spot any stars. As a more commercially oriented retail line, it’s probably too sedate to draw them out. As designers clean up for Spring/Summer 2008, so has Steffe. Usually known for embroidered touches, bows, whimsical buttons and other details, her current collection appears more restrained and more ladylike than girly. Blousons and dropped waist skirts give women back some shape currenty lost in cocoons.

After the shows, I exited the tent to decompress before unloading another 5 pounds of magazines at home. Sitting in Bryant Park to change back to rubbah slippahs, I was handed a flyer by a PETA “cop” there to protest use of animal skins as fashion. Rubbah slippahs are approved apparel. Earlier inside the tent, I saw a woman change out of her black velvet wedges and into white rubber slippers, while another with taupe suede pumps with gold stiletto heels changed into gold ballerina flats. “I do that, too. It’s a killer!” another woman told her.

Sergio Davila took over an upstairs gallery
at the Chelsea Art Museum for his menswear show.

In the evening, I headed to the Chelsea Art Museum for a change of pace with Sergio Davilo’s men’s show. “California Dreaming” was the theme, with inspiration taken from surf chic. Button-up shirts and jackets were often paired with casual check and striped shorts. I couldn’t read the expressions of the men; the women were looking at the male models.

Mostly men in the crowd at Sergio Davila’s show.

By Nadine Kam

Y and Kei’s Spring/Summer 2008 collection embraces the urban hippie.

Eased my way into Fashion Week, away from the tents and into the sedate setting of the New York Public Library Celeste Bartos Forum, where Y and Kei Water the Earth hosted a presentation of its Spring 2008 Collection. It’s a little jarring to be thinking about spring just when the fall collections have moved into the stores, but it seems fall’s cocoons, sheaths and chemises will still be with us at least for another eight months.

The presentation had 17 models arranged in a circle on a circular mirror with a sculptural arrangement of ladder-like pieces of blond wood behind them. Photographers, fashion writers and editors circled, studied, took notes, then stood by to watch everyone else do the same. The designs by Hanii Y and Gene Kei offer a modern interpretation of the carefree hippie girl who embraces love, peace and freedom, and just a trace of rebellion to make life interesting.

Tiah wears a gray-blue variegated jacquard
dolman-sleeve chemise with drawstring neckline.
Check out their Y & Kei shoes with bunchy hose.

Below, Lucyna wears a silver metallic cotton dress with
hand-cut and applique chiffon feather scallops.

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