Archive for the ‘New York spring 2008 shows’ Category

Walking in the rain with Adidas Y-3

September 8th, 2007

Y-3 umbrellas

Yohji Yamamoto made it rain during his Saturday afternoon
show for Adidas Y-3. Guests were led to the door by staffers
carrying umbrellas.

There was a lot of buzz surrounding Yohji Yamamoto’s Adidas Y-3 fashion show underneath the High Line at 21st Street, an abandoned elevated rail line being repurposed as a public park, with the first segment set to open in 2008.

Yamamoto always promises a spectacle, and this time created rain with hoses that poured onto the street, while under the rail guests sat on aluminum bleachers surrounding the street runway, slick and puddly after also being hosed down. Guests who entered on the wrong side of the street were led to the line to get in by staffers carrying umbrellas.

So, it’s a hot day, the venue is outdoors, the line encompasses sportswear. How would you dress? I wore a Theory black tank top, Diesel skirt and trusty old rubber slippers. One Asian girl got it all wrong, dressing as if she was headed to a cocktail party in a pouffy dress, chandelier earrings, Chanel purse and mink-trimmed stilettos. I’m sure she really loved stepping into water puddles.

stephen gan

Stephen Gan arrives and was photographed upon the
arrival of his Visionaire co-editor Cecilia Dean.

Spotted Visionaire’s Stephen Gan in a white T-shirt and jeans and realized I had not spotted his cohort Cecilia Dean all week. She turned up 10 minutes later in a simple leopard-spotted shift and flats, definitely shorter in person than she appears in photographs. Celebs in the house included LL Cool J, who’s a really big guy, Samuel L. Jackson and Mena Suvari, who wore a white tank top and jeans. Her hair was buzz cut, no doubt for a movie role. She also had that Hollywood glowing skin that comes from pampering and no worries while handlers are paid to do your worrying for you. In this case, the stars hung out in trailers parked in back of the venue where they could rest and sip champagne, entering just 5 minutes before show time.

Y-3 rehearsal

A model in her own dress walks through the
puddle-covered venue during rehearsals before the show.

They weren’t adequately spaced though. While all cameras followed LL Cool J, Jackson entered with zero fanfare. It’s funny how he seems like such a larger-than-life character on film; he looks like an unassuming man on the street without the camera’s glare.

Y-3 show

A model, in red, crosses the wet asphalt while
guests sat on aluminum bleachers.

The show started with the sound of thunder, and when the hoses came on, those who did not see the rehearsal thought it had really started to rain. Clothes shown were fluid pieces, meant for active lifestyles but minimalist and chic enough for the street. The designer, who observed rehearsals with the anxiety and pride of a parent, seemed pleased, smiling serenely.

Back stage at Temperley London

September 8th, 2007

alice + robert

All photos by Nadine Kam c 2007
Robert Verdi interviews designer Alice Temperley.

From the spectator’s view, all is calm and glossy once the models hit the runways in the tents. For a look from the other side, I got to go back stage at Temperley London Saturday afternoon, where Aveda was handling hair duty and MAC was responsible for models’ faces.

Alain Pichon

Aveda head stylist Alain Pichon works on Margaryta’s hair.

As far as faces for spring, it’s shaping up to be quite pale, with soft color all around. For Temperley, MAC’s head artist Charlotte Tilbury used all-over gloss on eyelids and cheeks, with saturated matte color on the lips, orange on tanned skin and a pinker hue for pale skin. Lips popped from a distance. For real wear, she suggested blotting the color for a subtler stained look. But that’s getting ahead of time. I just know that returning to Hawaii will be like going through a time tunnel back to fall thoughts! I can see what a killer it is for fashion people to keep up here. When they see what’s new, they want it NOW. Meanwhile, I’m seeing all of fall’s cocoon dresses on the street and getting kind of burnt on the look. Makes me want to pass on the season.

temperley stripe

Dressing the modern flapper at Temperley London.

orange lips

Bright orange matte lips and glossy face effects from MAC.

For Aveda and MAC, creating looks to go with the clothing takes place only a couple of days before the show when they get to see the clothes and talk about the inspiration behind them. In this case, the 1920s and ’30s as the birth of fun in fashion. I have to give them credit for keeping all the shows straight. Tilbury said she’s creating the makeup for 10 New York shows, 4 or 5 in London, 14 in Milan and 10 to 12 in Paris. I can’t imagine how stressful that must be. I’ve just been going to shows 4 days and I’m exhausted!

Temperley trio

The quick-rising London designer Alice Temperley presented her first New York show last year, and will likely be as big stateside as she is in her home country, where she’s known for dressing party girls. Her soft knit dresses were adorable and topped by sleek retro cloche hats. Ensembles were completed with Oxford boots and lace-up granny boots in metallic snake and leather.

temperley panty

All things considered, down to the Cosabella nude thong.

While there, I also got a chance to talk to the catwalk’s “It” girl Agyness Deyn, who channels a sort of Edie Sedgwick-meets-”Who’s That Girl”-era Madonna. I can see why she stands out with her dark brows and shock of bleached hair. Most of the other models are pale-eyed, baby-faced Eastern European girls and with all their makeup on, tend to look alike. The last thing designers want is to create superstars that require super salaries, but some girls, like Agnyess, just have star quality.

Agnyess Deyn

Nadine Kam photo c 2007
It girl Agyness Deyn came in wearing a cute turban-style
vintage hat. Her dress chart is below.

agnyess chart

I asked her how many shows she was doing, and she said she didn’t know. “I get a list the day before. It makes it easier. You don’t have to organize everything in your head.”

No blemishes

No blemishes can show.