Jason Wu at St. Regis

September 12th, 2009
By Nadine Kam

Jason Wu

Nadine Kam photos
Jason Wu is interviewed prior to his fashion show at the St. Regis Hotel this afternoon.

Michelle Obama may have been Jason Wu’s claim to fame, but the rest of us will want a piece of him now. This is a first. By the end of his show, I was in tears. I don’t know why. I had not a clue I would react that way when looking at the clothes on the rack and seeing the designer before the show. Maybe it was because it was perfection. It may be because the show, beyond the 20-minute spectacle, represents so much passion and years of hard work, ambition and dreaming, that to see it fully realized in such an amazing way was overwhelming. The setting, with the song, “Starlight,” by Muse playing, and seeing the designer follow his collection down the runway, had their impact. Usually, the designers—not front-of-room personalities—just humbly peek out for a brief wave after the show. Wu had to do the walk because of the configuration of the L-shaped rooms, to allow all guests to applaud him, and it was a powerful moment.

Luckily, the room was as dark as a theater after the finale so I could compose myself before heading out into the street and out to Chelsea for two shows set in art galleries. It was 9/11, so all my shows today were sited away from the tents, perhaps the thinking among this group of designers being it’s safest to avoid any crowd scenes.

Tim Burton girlmac face chart wu

The Tim Burton girl was the inspiration, in makeup by M.A.C, as charted above.

After talking to makeup artist Lucia Peroni for M.A.C, I took a look at the clothes hanging on the racks. They were definitely pretty dresses with fitted bodices and fuller skirts, some of billowing silk chiffon. The softness of the dresses contrasted with the hard line of black zippers down the back. There were also ladylike but sporty tweed suiting, with the drama of feathered skirts and dresses for the finale, but it was hard to get the full impact of the pieces until they went on the models. M.A.C worked closely with Wu to come up with a look that suited his vision of a Tim Burton girl, one that combines innocence with a dark edge. The makeup aimed for big, simple but sparkly and twinkly eyes achieved with crushed metal pigments, paired with a strong lip. The three lip colors that went on the models were a bright Russian red, burgundy brown and deep purple black currant. Eyes are lined with brown kohl pencil and brown eye shadow helped to add depth, and while some color is used for light contouring, Peroni said there is “no blush per se, it’s monochromatic chic with a little edge and rawness.”

media

The media, including representatives from AP, Extra, Elle magazine and Style.com waits for something to happen. People keep asking me if Fashion Week is fun. I don’t think that’s the right word. It’s just bigger and more intense than my work at home. It’s a challenge.

I was kind of bored waiting after the media was kicked out of the dressing room while the models changed into their clothes. I was looking down, considering the blister on my foot when someone passed close to my left. I glanced up and noted the slim figure and unmistakable bob and a fabulous structured crimson dress. It was none other than Ms. Wintour herself, paying a visit to Mr. Wu. Not having to work in this town, I gave chase and would easily asked her permission to snap her photo, but cameras were still being blocked from the dressing room. I also tried to get a shot through the doorway but there were too many people in the way. When she came out again she was walking close behind someone blocking any shots from the camera crews, real news guys who were still trying to figure out if she was Anna!

andre leon talley

André Leon Talley sits backstage.

Also in the house were Vogue’s André Leon Talley, and IMG Fashion VP and Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week creator Fern Mallis, who was quite calm while explaining to organizers that someone was sitting in her seat!

dark lips on

waiting.JPG

Lynn Yaeger was among the guests waiting for the show to start.

I was hoping to photograph the clothing as the models came out. We were originally told we could shoot from the hallway, but I guess they decided they didn’t want anyone blocking the models’ path, so for this one, with a very limited guest list due to the long, narrow venue, media guests were crammed in the back of the room, with mostly back views of the clothing, that you’ll have to look at in the video.

finale dresses

These finale pieces were handled with white gloves by the dressers.

glass tiles

Just before the show, glass tiles placed on the St. Regis carpet were wiped clean of any spots for an unblemished showcase. Guests had been asked to try to avoid stepping on the tiles when being seated.

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